Tag Archives: Mulch

Plant Native Plugs Now By Following These Simple Steps From Ion Exchange, Inc.

Follow these simple steps to get your native garden going with live plant plugs:

  • Select the proper species just right for your region and environment.  Select color, bloom time, soil moisture required and sunlight conditions.
  • Eliminate all competition from existing vegetation by tillage or using a burn down herbicide such as Roundup.
  • Group your plants by species and plant in clusters to make sure you get a real burst of color during flowering time.
  • Space your plants approximately one foot on center but you may leave a greater distance between clusters.
  • Of course, plant taller species in the background so as to not to hide shorter species.
  • Use a dibble bar to plant your plugs.  A dibble bar can be hand made.  If you are in loose soil that has been tilled, you may use your hand or hand trowel but in harder untilled soil, you will need a planting device called a dibble bar that you can create or purchase.
  • Make sure your live plants, when planted have good soil contact with minimal air space around roots.  Insure this by heeling in the plants without injuring them and water them right away.
  • Mulch the entire area with approximately 4 inches of mulch.
  • You will need to maintain your garden by eliminating any unwanted weeds or species that tend to spread.
  • You may want to move some of your species in the future because you do not like the aesthetics.  You can paint your own picture after you get a feel for what looks good to you.

Earthyman

To Purchase Native Wildflowers & Prairie Plants Visit Us At http://ionxchange.com/

 

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Plant Native Plant Plugs Now

Follow these simple steps to get your native garden going with live plant plugs:  Select the proper species just right for your region and environment. Select color, bloom time, soil moisture required and sunlight conditions.  Eliminate all competition from existing vegetation by tillage or using a burn down herbicide such as Roundup.  Group your plants by species and plant in clusters to make sure you get a real burst of color during flowering time.  Space your plants approximately one foot on center but you may leave a greater distance between clusters.  Of course, plant taller species in the background so as to not to hide shorter species.  Use a dibble bar to plant your plugs. A dibble bar can be hand made. If you are in loose soil that has been tilled, you may use your hand or hand trowel but in harder untilled soil, you will need a planting device called a dibble bar that you can create or purchase.  Make sure your live plants, when planted have good soil contact with minimal air space around roots. Insure this by heeling in the plants without injuring them and water them right away.  Mulch the entire area with approximately 4 inches of mulch.  You will need to maintain your garden by eliminating any unwanted weeds or species that tend to spread.  You may want to move some of your species in the future because you do not like the aesthetics. You can paint your own picture after you get a feel for what looks good to you. Earthyman

www.ionxchange.com hbright@acegroup.cc

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Q&A On Establishing a No/Mow Low/Grow Lawn

No Mow Low Grow Grass

Mowing

How often can they mow it for a manicured lawn look and does this have any detrimental effects on the lawn?   Usually within 6 weeks.  How often can they mow it for optimum lawn performance?  Is once per month adequate?  Once per month should be adequate if mower is adjusted to 4” height.  It can, however, be mowed just like a normal lawn if desired.  If you prefer not to mow, the lawn will take on a beautiful low, soft meadow appearance.

Sowing rate and procedure
What is the recommended seeding rate and the best installation procedure?  Our site contractor said it will most likely be machine broadcast with straw mulch placed on top.   They have stripped the topsoil, stockpiled it and will be respreading it in all lawn seeded areas.

Seeding the Low/Grow No/Mow Lawn

Seedbed Preparation: Till the soil approximately 6 inches deep. Level with garden or landscaping rake. Surface may be firmed by rolling or soaking, then re-raking till level. Leave top ½ inch loose to allow seed to be worked into soil.

Fertilization: Prior to or right after seeding, apply a starter fertilizer to help proper root development. Continue using a systematic fertilizer program to maintain a healthy lawn.

Seeding: Sow seeds evenly at 7-10 lbs/1,000 square feet. Rake lightly into soil. No more than 1/8 inch of soil should cover seed. Roll with a water roller.

Covering: Use blankets, pelletized or paper mulch, or straw to hold soil moisture and hasten germination. Baled straw may bring in unwanted weeds; use with caution.

Watering: Do not allow soil to dry out. Keep soil moist with frequent light watering until seedlings are visible. After lawn is established, water as necessary.

Mowing: Maintain mower height between 2 to 3 inches, never remove more than 1/3 of the grass plant with each mowing.

Weed Control: It is very common to see new weeds when planting a new lawn or disturbing the soil. For new lawns, wait 6-8 weeks before using any herbicide. For existing lawns, the best weed control is to maintain a healthy lawn by regular fertilization, proper mowing, and watering as necessary.  If Aurora Gold Seed is used, Roundup herbicide may be applied the second year at the recommended rate for Aurora Gold as it is tolerant to Roundup if used with right application amount.

Recommended time to seed
We are anticipating a May seeding time.  If we run into June for seeding is that o.k.?
Cool season grasses such as the Low/Grow No/Mow germinate best when the soil temperatures are between 50° and 65° degrees F. These soil temperatures usually occur when the daytime air temperatures are between 60° and 75° degrees. Fall is the best time to plant  cool season grasses. Planting in the Fall presents the least risk of planting failure for cool season grass. Plant your cool season grass seed when the fall temperatures reach 75° and are dropping as winter approaches. Alternately the second choice is to plant in spring when spring temperatures have reached 60 and are rising in the spring. Planting in summer can occur, but irrigation becomes a critical factor in establishment. High temperatures of summer can cause the grass to go dormant so planting during summer is not recommended. Planting when night-time temperatures are above 70° should be avoided.

Specifications
Provide us with any specifications for installation.
Three Planting Issues
should be observed when creating good seed / soil contact and thus insuring proper germination of your seeds:

The primary one is that seeds mu
st be planted (covered by soil) at the correct depth.  With most grass seeds that depth is 1/8 to 1/4 of soil above the seed.  With other types of seeds, planting depth can be deeper, but with grass seeds, this depth is often a critical factor in obtaining good germination.

Second is that good seed/soil contact also means that the soil has good moisture and that the soil is in CLOSE contact with the seeds allowing moisture in the soil to enter the seeds.  Often slightly firming the soil after planting with a light roller presses the soil tighter around the seeds thus improving the germination of seeds.

Third and a key factor in getting seeds to germinate is that the temperatures (and season) must be right for the particular type of seeds (see when to plant) planted AND there must be adequate soil moisture for the seeds to germinate.  Depending on the soil type, watering may be required for multiple times daily in order to keep the top inch or two of soil moist (not wet) for the seeds and seedlings (germinated seed plant) to grow.

Get your No/Mow Low/Grow Lawn Seed

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Non-Lawn Gardening Chores

August 31, 2009 by Evelyn J. Hadden
From our teenage years (or even earlier), Americans are trained to care for our lawns. But if you have — or decide you want — a different landscape, what kind of maintenance chores can you expect? What do you need to learn? Here’s a quick course in non-lawn maintenance.

Most Chores are Seasonal

If you choose a low-maintenance design, your landscape will likely need only seasonal maintenance rather than weekly chores. Seasonal maintenance may include any or all of the following:

  • Semi-annual, annual, or every-few-year pruning of woody plants <http://www.lesslawn.com/pages/glossary.html#woodyplants>
  • Cutting meadows or prairies every few weeks to every few years, or burning them every one to seven years
  • Periodically clearing paths of weeds every few weeks to every year, depending on path material, edge material, and surrounding plants
  • Weeding the planting beds or natural areas every few weeks to every few years, depending on your plant mix and climate
  • Topping off mulch or gravel paths every year or every few years
  • Watering and weeding new plantings while they’re getting established, which could take a month to a couple of years
  • Sweeping or raking fallen leaves off paths, patios, and lawns as needed, depending on your trees

You and Your Landscape Determine the Workload

Intensity and type of chores will depend partly on your climate, partly on your chosen (or given) landscape, and partly on your aesthetic goals.

Climate-driven Chores

In general, plants chosen to fit the site conditions and climate can survive without supplemental water, soil additives, or mulch. Your native plants are thus cheapest and easiest to maintain, though you can also find well-adapted non-natives that will survive in your site without extra care. Look to your neighbors’ gardens, regional public gardens, and nearby natural areas for examples.

Every region and climate has its challenges. Certain landscaping styles will be better adapted to your climate (and thus lower maintenance) than other styles.

Some examples:

  • In dry areas, you’ll focus your efforts on protecting plants from drought, and it will be more work to make landscapes that are lushly green and packed with plants.
  • In wet areas, many chores will arise due to unwanted and unplanned growth of your plants, and it will be more work to maintain areas of bare ground and open spaces.
  • In cold climates, frost-sensitive plants are more work. This includes shallow-rooted plants that need mulching to protect them from frost heaves as well as plants that are damaged or stunted by low temperatures.
  • In hot climates, plants that require periods of cold dormancy (such as apple trees) are more work, as are plants that suffer in high temperatures.

Landscape-specific Chores

When it comes to maintenance, design matters.

Neat, clean edges take more work to maintain.

Clipped shrubs and other shaped plants take more work too, as do individual plants that are expected to stay uniform with each other in size and shape. Plants that are expected to stay separate from surrounding plants or to stop growing at a certain size will not.

Continuous bloom requires not only extra planning but probably more supplemental water and fertilizer, as flowering time is dictated largely by climatic factors such as precipitation and day-length.

Maintaining a bug-free landscape is more work and has ramifications (more on why we need bugs <http://www.lesslawn.com/articles/article1075.html> ). Trying to keep selected species out of the garden when it provides food or a niche for them also increases the workload.

The common thread here is that fighting natural processes takes more effort, whereas accepting, incorporating, and even capitalizing on natural processes shifts the work off your shoulders.

A Low-maintenance Lawn

How you want your lawn to look will determine a lot of your workload in maintaining it. Lawns are the quintessential unnatural landscape because we are fighting natural processes on several fronts. By choosing to foster a lawn that’s less unnatural, we can decrease our lawn chores.

  1. Let other plants (like clover <http://www.lesslawn.com/articles/article1061.html> ) into your lawn. Left to nature’s devices, the lawn would become more diverse, allowing broad-leaved plants to mingle with the grass. By maintaining a monoculture of one or a few grass species, we work against this process.
  1. Grasses grow to their genetically determined height and then form seedheads so they can ensure their species’ survival. Cutting grass before it produces seedheads encourages it to spend more energy regrowing in an attempt to produce seedheads before the seasonal cues tell it to go dormant. Choose low-growing species, and take off no more than 1/3 of the blade length with each cutting.
  1. Grasses and other lawn plants are indefinite spreaders, for the most part. They’ll keep expanding their reach across bare soil (or mulch), into nearby plantings, under shrubs and trees, between bricks, and so forth. Keeping a lawn within bounds and out of planting beds requires constant vigilance. Not only do its roots need to be kept from spreading into non-lawn areas underground, but also the grass at the edges needs to be kept clipped so that it doesn’t arch over and plant seedlings outside the lawn.
  1. Grasses (like any other plant) lose root mass when we cut their tops off, and this root dieback decreases their drought tolerance and their ability to gather nutrients from the soil. Plants that are left taller develop larger root masses that can buffer them against more extreme climate conditions.

Design for Efficiency

You can design away some maintenance and tackle some chores more efficiently with planning.

Use Fallen Leaves as Mulch

Why bring in mulch and cart away leaves? Leaves are nature’s own mulch, and they effectively protect root zones <http://www.lesslawn.com/pages/glossary.html#rootzone>  from drying, attract beneficial soil-building organisms, and decay into rich soil full of humus.

If you rake fallen leaves off your patios, paths, and lawn, don’t haul them away. Instead, put them under trees and shrubs to regenerate the soil.

Stop raking under your trees. This is a lot of work and is counterproductive to your trees’ health. Your trees naturally create optimal soil conditions by losing leaves, which form a humus layer to protect their root zones. You are interfering with this healthy cycle by raking away their fallen needles or leaves. Establish one or more Tree Islands <http://www.lesslawn.com/articles/article1038.html>  to keep the leaves under your trees where they can be useful.

Redesign your landscape for lower maintenance by including Tree Islands and other planting beds in or around areas where you rake. Then you can rake the leaves directly off the patio or lawn into nearby planting areas.

Establish Zones of Maintenance

Designate certain areas of your landscape for low work, for regular watering, and so forth. Rather than scattering your needier plants through your yard, group them. Put them near the hose. This is a permaculture <http://www.lesslawn.com/articles/article1069.html> concept.

Grouping your plants into maintenance zones will help you to avoid overwatering <http://www.lesslawn.com/articles/article1062.html> .

Store Runoff in Your Plants and Soil

Direct your stormwater runoff toward thirsty plants. Use rain gardens, swales, french drains, dry streambeds, and other combinations of shaped earth and plantings to channel runoff and capture it in your soil. Healthy soil stores water for plants to access, letting them weather longer periods between rains.

As you build up your soil with humus (decaying leaves, stems, and roots of plants), and as your plants’ increasing root mass creates more channels in the soil, your soil will be able to hold more water. Over time, rain gardens and similar methods of infiltrating runoff will be able to capture more water.

In dry climates, the simple design tactic of using raised paths and sunken beds directs runoff to plants, increasing their health and decreasing your workload. For those who want the lawn to stay lusher without additional watering, try designing a low lawn surrounded by berms (and shaded by a few of the less competitive trees in really sunny sites). This design will direct runoff onto the lawn and protect it from drying sun, keeping it moister and lusher without extra work for you.

Design Plant Communities

Many plants help other plants. Forest gardening <http://www.lesslawn.com/articles/article1068.html> explores the science of companion planting for crop production, particularly with perennial plants.

Use nitrogen fixers like clover and leguminous plants as natural fertilizers. Grow them with other plants, or cut them periodically and use the clippings to mulch other plants.

Use living mulches — plants tall or short — to cover bare ground, shade out weed seedlings, and keep root zones <http://www.lesslawn.com/pages/glossary.html#rootzone>  moist.

Use nectar plants to keep pollinators living in your yard, close at hand when your food plants flower.

Use taprooted <http://www.lesslawn.com/pages/glossary.html#taprooted> plants to open up channels in compacted soil, breaking it up for finer-rooted plants and increasing its ability to store water and nutrients for all plants.

Though some of the above chores may be unfamiliar to you, remember that gardening is not like hanging wallpaper. You don’t have to do it perfectly the first time. In garden time, events are seasonal and recurring. Scenes may take years to unfold. Change is the rule. You can guess what will happen, but it may not happen that way at all.

In other words, hang up a hammock and be prepared to enjoy the process!

Try our No Mow Low Grow Grass and mow once a month or longer!

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